More on Japanese Pedestrians
Since writing the two posts about the Japanese pedestrians reading too much on the road, and being annoyed by them, I have heard from many people telling me that they have the same problems in their various cities. I’ve heard from people in New York, Connecticut, Hong Kong, London, and lots of other places. All were kind; all were empathizing with my issues. However, I was getting upset because I know there’s something different, worse, here in Tokyo and I couldn’t put my finger on it. I’ve been in cities all over Asia and in the U.S. I don’t claim to know a lot about Europe since I’ve only been in London and Paris, but things just feel different here than in other places. Then, a guy I follow on Twitter commented randomly that foot-traffic in Tokyo would go a lot smoother if people would look somewhere other than at their shoes.
By George, that’s it!!
I quickly wrote back, empathizing. He wrote to me again, commenting that he’s never seen people so dangerously unaware of their surroundings. “In the U.S., they’d be mugged, or worse.”
Yes yes yes!!
I am loathe to say that it’s cultural, since I’m not 100% sure and I need to do some research, but it’s absolutely true that when walking, Japanese people look down at their shoes – or at the street. They do not look up and see what’s around them. They do not look both ways when crossing a street, and therefore do not teach this rule to their children. They always assume that others will look out for them. They don’t see other people or bicycles coming toward them because they don’t look up. In any other city, these people would be asking for trouble by not keeping their eyes trained around them.
I am constantly reminding my children to “walk forward, look forward” because I want them to be aware of what’s happening around them. But apparently this is not part of the Japanese ethos because the kids are unrestrainedly all over the place on the sidewalks and the streets. You never can tell when they’re going to pop up in front of you or on the side of you, and their movements are wholly unpredictable.
In most places, you can sort of predict what people will do when you walk behind them, but in Japan, it’s impossible to tell if someone is about to take a sharp left turn in front of you; movements are sudden and without warning. And they’re slow. My New Yorker friends are so frustrated when they walk in Tokyo – they always wish for a passing lane of pedestrians because the Japanese walk slowly. This I am sure is cultural – in the Japanese world, you plan your time so you don’t rush and you’re never, ever late.
I do know that most Japanese people avoid eye contact. If I’m walking or riding my bike and have indicated that I’d like to pass a person, or even if I’m walking or riding toward people, they never never look me in the eye – they barely look at me at all, and never directly at my face. Sometimes they will turn their head in defiance. I’m sure it’s not personal, and I am pretty sure it’s not because I’m a foreigner, either. It’s just not part of the culture to look directly at people.
All of these issues make walking and riding in Tokyo different and seemingly more difficult than walking or riding in other cities. Combine these issues with the extreme crowds, and it’s a recipe for disaster. I love Japan – I love Tokyo, but the walking and riding issues are definitely not my favorite part.
Aimee, do please address the issue of jay-walking, or the absence thereof, in Japan. Why do people stand and wait for the lights to change when there are no cars coming or anybody around them to tut-tut them, for example in the middle of the night? I deliberately jaywalk to make a point, actually (but not when Rogier, Mimi and Kaka are around). I think it is another manifestation of the “not thinking for themselves” syndrome. Traffic lights exist for us and we don’t exist for them. We should be able to take responsibility for our own safety and others’, too. The Japanese are brainwashed to do as they are told, and no wonder; walk onto a train station platform and one gets bombarded by announcements about what not to do, where to stand, whether to switch the mobile telephone to “manner mode”, why one shouldn’t pick one’s nose or scratch the crotch, etc., etc., etc., ad nauseum. We live in a ruddy nanny state.
I always find your viewpoint singularly interesting, Yuuichiro, as a non-Japanese Japanese. I will do it.
Hi, walking in Japan may be the single most annoying thing about the country. The Japanese walk very slowly, while zig-zagging across any available space, so overtaking is very difficult as the snal in front will just keep moving in your way. There is obviously an element of selective attention here, as the faster walkers and non-zigzaggers don’t intrude on the foreigner’s consciousness so much. An incident yesterday, however, clearly demonstrates that the walking Japanese have absolutely no concept of the space around them and only focus on their own needs at the time. Having disembarked from a subway I was heading toward the stairs (to avoid locals rushing to wait for the escalator!?) when a woman came down the stairs. At the bottom she walked on a bit then paused, presumably to find where she needed to go. She was on my left so I kept walking, angling a bit to miss her. When I was right on top her, lieterally, she turned to her left and walked straight into my shoulder as if she was trying to walk through me. Instead of looking embarssed or apologsing she just tried to push me out of her way with a double hand thrust. Being a western man I must weight a good 40% more than the average Japanese woman so the push didn’t have much effect, but i think it shows that Japanese pedestrains are either completely self-abosorbed or fantasically rude, or both. The drivers, howvever, seem to operate by a different set of rules. Maybe the government can introduce a walking license.